During WWI, hatpins became viewed as an extravagance and the materials used to make hatpins were redirected for the war effort. Despite the public outcry, the reign of the hat pin was to end soon. They decried the measures citing a worry for women’s safety if they were unable to defend themselves. This was met with considerable resistance, especially from the suffragists and working-class women. Numerous countries including the USA and England imposed laws restricting hatpins over 9 inches in length. The ones at the Sam Waller Museum are made from faux jewels but are designed to look like expensive rare gems.īy the 1910’s hat pins were declared a national and international threat. Hatpins came in a variety of lengths and could be over 13 inches long. Some pin tops moved when jostled, and others had secret compartments for makeup compacts. Pin tops commonly had faux jewels inset or meaningful design. They were made in a variety of materials such as brass, gold, wood, and even ivory. It was thought that the more ornate a pin was, the wealthier its owner was. Hatpins came in a dizzying array of lengths, colours, and designs and were often used as status symbols. The hatpin became a woman’s weapon of choice for discouraging harassment because it was easily concealable and one good jab was usually all it took to deter unwanted attention. With this newfound freedom came an increase in harassment from unsavoury men. Due to the Industrial Revolution, many women began working away from home and went about in public spaces unchaperoned by a familial escort for the first time. Women in the late 1890’s and early 1900’s enjoyed a level of freedom rarely seen before in society. Thus, begun a public menace that lasted until the 1920’s! Women soon found a secondary function to the trusty hat pin- as a weapon for self defence. Fashion at that time demanded ornate up-do’s and large, extravagant hats which were pinned to their owner’s hair using hat pins. Screenshot 140232 (resized).png Screenshot 141224 (resized).Hat pins have been used since the early 1400’s but enjoyed renewed popularity starting in the 1890’s. I have been stuck on the last issue for a week now. There are also a couple bad components on one of the aux lamp driver boards (burnt), but I have swapped those out and no change (that's how desparate I am lol).Īny guidance is appreciated. There is also one somewhat toasty area on the MPU but I don't think it is related. Any tips on next steps? This affects the vari-target reset coil (Q55), the 8-ball drop target reset (Q56), and the "large hat" ring of 5 lamps under the playfiled (Q54). Tested continuity everywhere I can think of and all looks good. I can confirm that when I ground the transistors on the primary driver board, all the coils fire and I performed ground mods on the cab myself. I tested all the diodes and transistors there, and all look good. I don't think it is the transistor board though. I cannot get any of the three coils that route through the auxilary transistor board to work. Did the ground mods in cab (but not on boards yet though), new power supply, reflowed some sus joints on boards, etc. I am at my wits end chacing this gremlin.
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